Zatiaľ čo sme v predošlej časti predstavili vznik starších úsekov magistrály, v tomto článku sa pozrieme na najnáročnejšie a neskôr aj na najmladšie časti magistrály.
Veľká Fatra
Vstupu červenej magistrály do Veľkej Fatry sa venujeme v predošlom článku . Ďalej zostával už len úsek po Veľký Šturec, ktorý sa kedysi uvádzal ako rozhranie Veľkej Fatry a Nízkych Tatier, resp. po Donovaly, ktoré sú rozhraním dnes.
Značený úsek Krížna – Donovaly existoval už v roku 1928, pričom jeho podstatnú časť zrejme obsahovala aj Stredoslovenská cesta v roku 1926, ktorá však v závere tejto časti zostupovala do Korytnice . V roku 1928 už Stredoslovenská cesta viedla cez vrch Zvolen a Kečku ako dnes .
Nízke Tatry
Prechod Nízkych Tatier je vyvrcholením Cesty hrdinov SNP, hoci sa nachádza v strednej časti celej trasy. O tom, ako ťažko v týchto miestach vznikal turizmus, vypovedá dobová literatúra. Opis túry na Ďumbier v roku 1925 hovorí o „pramálo navštevovaných“ Nízkych Tatrách, pokiaľ sa vôbec dalo o nejakej návštevnosti hovoriť . Nedotknutosť hôr ilustruje časť turistického sprievodcu z roku 1921 takto: „V Nižních Tatrách nechť delší tury podnikají jen ti, kteří touží po rozkoši dlouhých potulek v tichu starých, nekonečných hvozdů, kteří jsou šťastni na vzdušných cestách po dlouhých hřebenech s volným rozhledem na vše strany a kterým není obtíží nésti dostatečným proviantem obtěžkaný baťoch a jimž je příjemnou obměnou ztráviti večery při ohni salašníků neb v jizbě odlehlých hájoven“
Prvý turistický sprievodca Nízkymi Tatrami bol vydaný až v roku 1938 a píše sa v ňom: „Dnes je téměř nepochopitelné, že hory, které skýtají tolik krás a zajímavostí jak po stránce turistické a lyžařské, tak i přírodovědecké, nebyly až do r. 1928 vůbec přístupny, neboť neměly ani jediné chaty.“ .
Napriek tomu Nízke Tatry neboli turistami úplne obchádzané. Už v roku 1889 bola turistom odporúčaná túra na Ďumbier a tiež na Kráľovu hoľu, na ktorú sa išlo z Pustého Poľa . Niektoré časti Nízkych Tatier sa objavili aj v zozname najkrajších turistických výstupov a prechodov na Slovensku v roku 1921: Veľká Chochuľa – Latiborská hoľa, Chabenec – Poľana – Chopok, Kráľova hoľa – údolie Hnilca . Značený bol prinajmenšom úsek od Krúpovej hole na Ďumbier (turistická trasa prichádzajúca z Demänovskej doliny) a načerveno dnes už zrušený úsek z Ďumbiera k miestam Štefánikovej chaty, ktorá vtedy ešte nestála. Ďalej však táto trasa, vyznačená Tatranským spolkom turistickým, pokračovala údolím potoka Štiavnica a nie po hrebeni . Naopak, ešte v roku 1923 neboli značené dnes hojne navštevované chodníky nad Korytnicou ani smerom do Veľkej Fatry, ani smerom do Nízkych Tatier, a rovnako ani na Kráľovu hoľu .
V roku 1923 na valnom zhromaždení Podtatranskej župy turistickej hovorilo o vyznačení cesty hrebeňom Nízkych Tatier. Prítomní sa uzniesli na tom, že by investícia vložená do značkovania bola zbytočnou, lebo na celej 80 km dlhej trase nie je ani jedna útulňa, turisti nemajú kde prenocovať a túto dlhú túru preto ani nemôžu podniknúť. Čakalo sa preto na zlepšenie podmienok a zatiaľ sa mali vyznačiť aspoň časti hrebeňa v hojne navštevovaných častiach Nízkych Tatier. Ako príklad sa uvádzajú Chabenec, Ďumbier a Kráľova hoľa . Útulňa na Ďumbieri sa mala postaviť už v roku 1923 , no v skutočnosti bol základný kameň položený v roku 1924 a dokončená bola až v roku 1928 .
Konkrétnejšie kontúry trasa nabrala v roku 1924, kedy sa v značkovacom pláne hovorí o línii Kremnica – Banská Bystrica – Ďumbier – Kráľova hoľa – Dobšiná – Spišská Nová Ves . V rovnakom roku sa opäť kritizuje plán vyznačiť červenými značkami Stredoslovenskú cestu z Vršatca do Spišskej Novej Vsi, pretože v jej strednej časti (Nízke Tatry) neexistuje ani jedna útulňa .
Nedostatok možností prenocovania nebol jediným problémom. Absentovali tiež chodníky, čo sa konštatuje pri článku o túre zrealizovanej v roku 1925 . Asi polovica uskutočnenej hrebeňovky medzi Chabencom a Králičkou bola bez cesty. Išlo napríklad o Chopok, kde si každý musel nájsť najvhodnejšiu cestu cez kamenisté pole.
Pohľad z vrcholu Besnej
V roku 1926 sa už uvádza trasa Stredoslovenskej cesty v Nízkych Tatrách od Hiadeľského sedla po Kráľovu hoľu v podstate podobe, v akej ju prevzala aj Štefánikova cesta a neskôr Cesta hrdinov SNP . Východisko nízkotatranskej hrebeňovky však nebolo na Donovaloch ako dnes, ale v Korytnici. Aj tento sprievodca upozorňoval na problematické prenocovanie: „Lidská sídla jsou pouze v dolinách, na horách jsou pouze koliby a salaše pastýřů, a to mnohem více na severní než na jiní straně hor. Tato situace turistovi ukládá namáhavé, dlouhé pochody a nutí ho, aby se spokojil často s nouzovým noclehem na seně v salaši. Útulků a turistických chat jest citelný nedostatek. Na severní straně je možno všude nocovati v horárnách (hájovnách), na straně jižní na státním majetku lesním jsou tu a tam hluboko v horách chaty často dosti dobře zřízené (se sporákem a kuchyňským nádobím a lůžky), avšak klíče od nich jsou vždy u nejbližšího lesního úřadu, jenž je propůjčí pouze na dovolení ředitelství státních lesů v Báňské Bystrici.“
Do približne dnešnej podoby sa trasa dostala najneskôr v roku 1928, kedy už po celom hrebeni Nízkych Tatier viedla červene značená Stredoslovenská cesta . Pri otvorení „Štefánikovej útulne na Ďumbieri“ sa už písalo o vyznačkovanej „ceste Štefánikovej“ hrebeňmi Tatier, ktorá sa dala prejsť od Krížnej až po Kráľovu hoľu . Na rozdiel od súčasného úseku od Derešov po Štefánikovu chatu cesta nebola upravená . Časť trasy ale využila staré banské chodníky, najmä od Krúpového sedla po Lajštroch , keďže v Nízkych Tatrách kedysi prebiehala intenzívna banská činnosť, a to aj na niektorých miestach hrebeňa.
Ktoré úseky boli skutočne vyznačené, je problém určiť, oprieť sa tak musíme o útržkovité informácie. V roku 1932 sa spomínajú červené značky medzi Krúpovou hoľou a Štefánikovou chatou . Celkovo medzi Chabencom a Ďumbierom nebola cesta všade riadne označená značkami , no v súvislosti s otvorením chaty pod Chabencom bola trasa medzi Korytnicou (resp. Hiadeľským sedlom – pozn. autora) a Ďumbierom v roku 1932 „bezvadně vyznačkovaná“, na najnutnejších úsekoch označená zimným tyčovaním a v oblasti Kotlísk boli doplnené reťaze . Cesta od chaty pod Chabencom na Ďumbier mala podľa orientačnej tabuľky trvať 6 hodín, čo ale bolo kritizované ako prikrátky čas pre mnohých (v roku 2018 bolo uvádzaných 5:25 h, avšak čiastočne už po upravených chodníkoch mimo hrebeňa). V turistickom sprievodcovi z roku 1933 (s údajmi aktuálnymi k predošlému roku) sa uvádza, že sa ešte len plánuje vyznačiť červená trasa z Ďumbiera cez Čertovicu na Kráľovu hoľu, keď budú zabezpečené útulne. Rovnaký sprievodca ale zároveň uvádza, že červená trasa je vyznačená v úseku Ďumbier – Čertovica a mapa v tomto sprievodcovi zobrazuje ako vyznačený celý hrebeň. O tom, že bol vyznačený aspoň úsek od Štefánikovej chaty na Ďumbier, svedčí aj sprievodca z nasledujúceho roka .
Nízke Tatry sa napokon turistických chát predsa len dočkali. Ako prvé boli vybudované chaty pod Ďumbierom (1928) a na úbočí Chabenca (1932) . Po vypálení viacerých chát v roku 1944 sa prechod Nízkymi Tatrami opäť skomplikoval , avšak hrebeňovka už zostala.
Červená hrebeňovka v Nízkych Tatrách
K oblasti Nízkych Tatier sa viaže ešte niekoľko zaujímavostí:
Už v roku 1938 sa plánovala výstavba upraveného chodníka po celej dĺžke Nízkych Tatier . K nej nakoniec došlo len v úseku od Derešov cez Chopok a Ďumbier k Štefánikovej chate a výstavba trvala od 1960. rokov do roku 1990.
Turistickí sprievodcovia od roku 1938 uvádzajú začiatok nízkotatranskej hrebeňovky v sedle Šturec (Veľký Šturec). Šturec, hoci fyzicky leží ešte vo Veľkej Fatre, nebol zvolený náhodou. Sedlom prechádza stará horská cesta spájajúca Pohronie a Liptov, ktorá bola vybudovaná v roku 1837, a so svojimi 28 serpentínami bola považovaná za najkrajšiu na Slovensku . V čase rozmachu turizmu tadiaľ viedla aj autobusová linka z Banskej Bystrice do Ružomberka, z ktorej sa dalo pohodlne nastúpiť na hrebeňovku. Naopak, na Donovaly sa dalo dostať len z Banskej Bystrice, keďže ďalej na Liptov cesta chýbala. Autobusová linka bola presmerovaná cez Donovaly po vybudovaní nového cestného horského cestného priechodu v roku 1961 . Zvyk začínať túru na Šturci ešte nejaký čas zostal, keďže ešte aj v roku 1965 sa ako začiatok nízkotatranskej hrebeňovky uvádza práve Šturec .
Dnešná ikona Nízkych Tatier, Chopok, sa až do druhej polovice 1940. rokov v literatúre veľmi nespomína ako orientačný bod. Prím dovtedy hral Ďumbier ako najvyšší bod Nízkych Tatier a miesto bývalej útulne aj novej chaty. Všetko zmenilo vybudovanie sedačkových lanoviek na oboch svahoch Chopka, ktoré ho sprístupnili pre širšiu verejnosť.
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Bibliografia
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